6 - 27 May - North West Australian Coast
Port Hedland was meant to be a one night restock stop, however, some car trouble kept us there for six days. It was a surprisingly vibrant and interesting, bustling industrial town which, from a Novacastrian's point of view (that's Jada), was familiar and comforting.
There isn't much between Port Hedland and Broome apart from Eighty Mile Beach which made for a great overnight stop.
I remember Broome from the early eighties when it was a little alternate and raw and before Lord McAlpine's work program had taken effect. There is a McDonalds here now! Anyway, still a very nice town and Cable beach is undeniably picturesque. We went to a live music and film show produced and performed by the local indigenous community the Yawuru People called A Taste of Broome. It is only performed once a month so we were lucky to see it. The dinosaur footprints are at Gantheaume Point and can only be seen on a very low tide.
From Broome we went north into the Dampier Peninsula. First stop, the aboriginal community of Beagle Bay where there is, considering the remoteness of the location, a spectacular Catholic Church. The Tappist Monks arrived and the Catholic Mission started around 1890. The current Church was opened in 1918. A Catholic school has been open since 1907. Beagle Bay Mission has a history of caring for "stolen children".
Shortly after leaving Broome the bitumen ends and the road turns to red sand, which becomes impassable in the wet, isolating Beagle Bay and the communities to its north, hence the need for a school bus that is one serious 4wd vehicle! Curiously once you enter aboriginal lands, the road north of Beagle Bay is bituminised. Shortly after leaving Beagle Bay we had our first animal strike. A herd of donkeys ran out of the scrub and were in front of the bulbar almost before I could hit the skids. I'm sorry to say that I ran over one and bumped another up the road a little. The trusty ARB bulbar did its job and protected the car so no damage there, however, I'm sorry that I can't say the same for the poor donkey. Bulbars are widely criticised in the city and generally rightly so, but out here they are an essential accessory in my book.
We camped at Middle Lagoon which is 32km off the main road to the west. The road into Middle Lagoon was even worse than the road into the Peninsula, sandy, narrow and undulating like the Wild Mouse ride at Luna Park used to be.
Ali had her 11th birthday here in one of the most remote and beautiful parts of the country.
Shortly after leaving Broome the bitumen ends and the road turns to red sand, which becomes impassable in the wet, isolating Beagle Bay and the communities to its north, hence the need for a school bus that is one serious 4wd vehicle! Curiously once you enter aboriginal lands, the road north of Beagle Bay is bituminised. Shortly after leaving Beagle Bay we had our first animal strike. A herd of donkeys ran out of the scrub and were in front of the bulbar almost before I could hit the skids. I'm sorry to say that I ran over one and bumped another up the road a little. The trusty ARB bulbar did its job and protected the car so no damage there, however, I'm sorry that I can't say the same for the poor donkey. Bulbars are widely criticised in the city and generally rightly so, but out here they are an essential accessory in my book.
We camped at Middle Lagoon which is 32km off the main road to the west. The road into Middle Lagoon was even worse than the road into the Peninsula, sandy, narrow and undulating like the Wild Mouse ride at Luna Park used to be.
Ali had her 11th birthday here in one of the most remote and beautiful parts of the country.
It is difficult to describe the beauty of Middle Lagoon. Our camp overlooked the beach which was safe to swim in (so they say) and had some nice snorkelling but the best part was the sunsets. There is definitely something different about the sky here. It is not just that the sun sets over the water, it is the kaleidoscope of deep, soothing colour, only occasionally disturbed by Harry's light sabre!
Hermit crabs almost carpeted the ground after 9pm. We borrowed them and had a little fun. Harry's not competitive!
We left the van at Middle Lagoon and broke out the tent and sleeping bags for two nights at Kooljaman at Cape Leveque where caravans aren't permitted.
While at Kooljaman we did a tag-a-long tour conducted by Brian Lee a local community elder. He took us to places otherwise inaccessible and gave us a historical and cultural education by way of a yarn.
